We lived in Japan from about 2012 to 2015. Our experience was prior to kids and COVID-19. I cannot speak to what things may be like post-pandemic or with children. But this was our take on living in Japan at that time.
Right after finishing basic training, A school, and C school, my husband received orders to his first duty station- Yokosuka, Japan.
It was his first pick. He wanted to try to be stationed overseas and he'd always wanted to visit Tokyo. And what better pick than a base that is only 45 minutes by train to Tokyo?!
I had initially stayed behind stateside for a little over a year to finish college. Once we were married and had the paperwork filed, I was so excited to join him overseas.
I was nervous, of course. I had never lived in any part of Asia. And it was a big move. But because he had gone ahead of me and I had already visited him twice over there for weeks at times, I was already a little familiar with the Tokyo and Yokosuka area.
The flight there from the United States of America can be between 10 to 17 hours depending on where you're leaving from. It's a long flight whether moving or visiting, but so worth it!
Pros
I'll go ahead and already admit, this was our absolute favorite place to be stationed! There were so many positives.
Community
I'll list community as the first pro because there was a huge sense of community out there. Even when I first got there and knew no one, it felt like everyone had each other's back. I mean we were all kind of going through the same thing. Living in a foreign country with no family close by. So everyone kind of became family.
Commute
The commute was so convenient for most... at least if you lived in Yokosuka. Some did live in places a little further out, such as Ikego, but overall the commute was nice. All the train lines were always so dependable, easy to navigate, and clean. They also made using the trains super easy with an app called Hyperdia and reloadable pass cards.
If you choose to drive, it is doable, especially locally. You would first need to pass their written and road test. You can then choose from one of the many hand-me-down base cars available. A lot of people sell or give their cars away for cheap because they can't own property like that upon moving back to the States. Of course, you can always treat yourself to a new car. The choice is completely yours. Once you do, make sure to register it with the base and the local vehicle department.
Housing
They do offer different options for housing. Just because you live overseas, does not mean you have to live on the base at this station. They try to have people rent on-base from one of the towers, a townhome, or a house. But sometimes the option to live off-base is available because the waitlist for on-base housing is too long.
We chose to rent and live off-base. The house we rented was only 5 minutes by car to the base, and 20 minutes by train and walking. It was a modern and newly built 2 bedroom, 2 bath single family home. And even though it was off-base, all 3 of our neighbors were Americans. Having nationals as our neighbors would have been cool, too. I think it just made the transition to living off-base in a foreign country more comforting to know other people that spoke English were super close by in case of emergencies or just for general questions.
Culture
The culture was amazing. For the most part, everyone was so nice and respectful!
Everywhere you went, even in public, things were clean and usually quiet. Even trains could be completely packed and it would still be super quiet. You are allowed to speak on trains, but it's encouraged to do so in a low tone. A lot of commuters like to nap on the train to and from work, and students like to read or study. Being loud or creating a scene is considered rude.
Tips are generally not accepted. Staff/employees will return the extra money because it is not a tipping culture. They do their jobs well and always politely regardless of incentives. Tips are considered an insult.
Bowing isn't just in movies and shows. It really is an integral part of their culture. They bow for so many reasons- when greeting, saying goodbyes, giving thanks, and just showing respect in general.
There are so many other beautiful cultural things I could point out. It seriously could go on and on- the way they exchange business cards, how you are supposed to pass things (even papers) to each other, the tea ceremonies, how students take care of their schools by cleaning them, how the elderly are revered, and how toddlers can even walk the streets safely alone because everyone is looking out for each other.
I felt so amazed, calm, and at peace living over there. It really is a refreshing and beautiful culture.
Entertainment
There was also just so much to see and do between temples, gardens, palaces, giant Buddha statues, amusement parks, malls, bars, arcades, concerts, street festivals, hiking trails, and of course Mt. Fuji!
Amusement parks in the area included Legoland Japan, SeaParadise, Tokyo Disney Land and Disney Sea, Fuji-Q, Hello Kitty World, and Universal Studios.
Traveling around Japan to sightsee other areas is pretty convenient. Whether you go by plane or train.
We took trips to Osaka and Kyoto by the Shinkansen (bullet train) and that was an awesome experience. The Shinkansen is the fastest train in the world and reached speeds of over 200mph at times!
We also flew up to Hokkaido for a ski trip and had an amazing time going down the slopes, checking out the little town buried in snow, relaxing in the Onsen (natural hot spring), and enjoying mulled wine by the fire.
Even when you chose to stay local, there was always something to do on the weekends. If you don't plan an actual trip, just going for a walk around one of the towns, or heading into Tokyo or Yokohama is always fun. It's common to run into some kind of festival that's going on. When you do, I highly recommend trying the festival street food. It's all delicious!
Food
When people think of Japan, usually the first food to pop into their heads is sushi. And while it is abundant there, Japan also offers so many other delicious food options.
If you're a seafood lover, like myself, you've hit the jackpot! There are so many sushi dining options and fish markets to explore. Fresh sushi and rice balls filled with fish can even be found in the minimarts (7-Eleven, Family Mart, Lawson). Trust me on this. Don't knock it till you try it. Their minimart food is AMAZING! Never once got sick from it.
If you're not into seafood, that's okay too! There is absolutely no reason to be nervous or think you won't be able to find something you like. Other common local foods are Japanese curries, Yakitori (barbequed meats on sticks), rice bowls with meat and/or veggie options, udon, and ramen!
Schools
While we didn't have kids at that time, I do know that the schools aboard CFAY were top-notch. They actually have the number 1 DODEA high school and elementary school in the world!
And fun fact- Mark Hamill, the actor that played Luke Skywalker, attended Kinnick High School there!
Cons
So while I absolutely LOVED living in Japan, there are just a couple of cons I wish to share.
The TOLLS!!!
OMG... If you can avoid going on the highways, do so.
I'm not sure of the current cost. But when we were there, driving a car from Yokosuka to Narita International Airport and back (about 4 hours round trip) could easily cost about $300 in tolls!
The fees are no joke. If you don't have to drive, don't. The trains are super convenient and affordable. And almost everywhere delivers if you need to make any large purchases.
We did have a little car that I drove. But it was really just to get groceries or things we needed locally. Carrying $80 worth of groceries by hand became exhausting quickly.
Microaggressions were the only other con I can really think of. There were a few times, especially with the older generation, when you'd be walking and they'd bump into you. Nothing harmful, but definitely on purpose.
There was also an instance when we tried to enter a restaurant that we noticed had a menu with English writing on it. Just as we tried walking in, a waiter ran out and told us "No Americans".
This occurred just after we had moved out there and were exploring Tokyo. We later learned a couple of restaurants and businesses do not like to cater to foreigners. They are legally protected in Japan to do so for whatever reason they wish to give, and as foreigners, we have to respect that.
***I must stress that this is a rare thing. Most of the people and places are very welcoming!
Do You Recommend It?
YES!!!
I highly recommend this duty station if you ever have the option.
I once polled military friends who've lived in various places both in the States and overseas of which place was their favorite, Yokosuka ranked the highest... with a huge margin!
We actually had orders to go back recently. However, that had to be declined because my husband is now attending law school.
We hope to go back one day. Even if it's just for a vacation or visit. We just loved and enjoyed it so much!
If you've been following me for a while, you'll notice it's taken me a while to type up a post related to Yokosuka. It has taken me some time to produce this post because I wanted to do it justice. I hope I've been able to capture the general essence of our adventure there to share with you.
How About You?
I'd love to hear from you.
Have you lived or visited Yokosuka or Japan in general? What are your thoughts?
Or are you a fellow military family that's considering or getting ready to move there?
Feel free to comment below!
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